Taupo, Ngati Rangi Marae, and Whakapaka Tongariro National Park

        Last Monday we arrived in the town of Taupo, which sits on the shores of Lake Taupo (which is about 60 miles around), a popular tourist destination in New Zealand. The lake primarily attracts tourists interested in recreational fishing. Where we were staying on the lake, we could look over the water to massive snow-capped mountains. On our first night in Taupo, we ventured to a series of small geo-thermal rivers and waded in them under the moonlight enjoying the natural heat of the water. Also while we were in Taupo, we spent one day and night on a farm called Awhi Farms (shown on the right) on the opposite side of the lake than the town and learned about the establishment that had been set up there. A few years ago, a small group of people inherited old land that used for industrial purposes and was dense bush, and they are currently successfully converting it to a sustaining living space. There was a series of gardens all over the property growing a variety of crops (mainly garlic, which was their favorite). The property also had a lovely compost toilet, a series of old jail cabins that were converted to guest houses, which we stayed in, an outdoor kitchen that used no electricity but had a magnificent pizza kitchen, as well as a earth house that was in the process of being built. Before and after lunch, we got to help with different projects around the farm and learn about all of the different projects that were going on. I helped concoct earth brick mix, which is made from soil and clay, concrete powder, and lime powder, and used a contraption (and all my weight) to press this mixture together to produce dense bricks that they were going to use to finish constructing a house. At night after washing our dishes with sawdust (because there was no trace of soap on the farm), we sat around the campfire under a full moon and roasted marshmallows—a perfect ending to any day spent outside.

            The following days in Taupo were used for classroom discussions and reflections on what we’ve learned so far. It’s astounding how much I feel like I’ve already learned about this country’s environmental issues. We had a big discussion on how we are going to carry the experiences that we’ve been fortunate enough to have here back to the states. The lingering questions was why did we come half way around the world to learn about New Zealand’s environmental issues when there are hundreds of issues in our backyard at home?

Ngati Rangi Marae

Mount Ruapehu

            Following our time in Taupo, we went on a retreat of sorts to Ngati Rangi Marae at the base of Mount Ruapehu for three nights. A marae is a Maori meeting house, that each group (or tribe) of Maori has. It is a common place that they come to meet and inside there are pictures of their ancestors that have passed away. We spent the next couple days learning about Maori and their intimate relationship with the earth. It was so interesting to hear how they regard the earth, and humbling to learn their perspectives and learn how much respect they have for the land. Ngati Rangi (the name of the group of Maori that we were staying with) is prominently facing issues with their rivers being diverted. The government has set up a number of diversions in each stream and river that brings the water to an underground tunnel, which then flows out to a manmade lake. We got to visit the Moawhango Dam, which creates the lake from the collected water. It was angering and sad to see the process of nature being interrupted. We had quiet time at many of the bodies of water, which Ngati Rangi considered to be their sacred sites, and often waded into different bodies of water to “greet” it. It was a really powerful experience to be with the Maori at their special sites and it made me consider what my ‘sacred’ places are at home in the States. It was really valuable to gain the Maori perspective and their outlook that “mankind should learn to manage itself around mountains, rather than expect a mountain to manage itself around us”.

Standing on top of Moawhango Dam

A few friends on a day hike

Following our spiritual time at the Marae, we piled into our vans and arrived at a Forest and Bird Lodge in Whakapapa Tongariro National Park. We were given a lot of free time, which was much needed. A group of us were interested in doing Tongariro Alpine Crossing, one of the most famous hikes in the world to emerald pools, however weather (90 km winds, which are deadly) prevented us from accomplishing it. Instead, we went on a beautiful day hike to Lake Tama, which had a striking blue shade. The national park also has a number of snow-capped mountains around it (Mount Ruapehu and Mount Doom, featured in Lord of the Rings), which were mostly immersed in clouds, however we got a few views of them. We also did a couple other smaller loop hikes in the park on our other days here and encountered powerful waterfalls and pretty rapids.

We’ve finally started hunkering down on schoolwork and have our first paper due on Sunday. I can’t believe we only have a week and a half left of our travel portion of the trip, and then we’ll be in Wellington following a week of ‘spring break’ doing a homestay and working at an internship. For break, a few friends and I are taking a ferry to the south island and hiking the Heaphy Track, the longest of the nine Great Walks in New Zealand. We’re hiking fifty or so miles in five days through beautiful, varying terrain, starting in the mountains and ending along the coast surviving on trail mix and granola. I can’t wait to continue this wonderful adventure that I’m lucky enough to be a part of. Next stop, a Quaker settlement in Whanganui.

Raglan

We just spent the last four days in Raglan, which as definitely been my favorite place we have stayed thus far. Raglan is a quaint beach town located on the west coast of New Zealand that has a very eco-friendly, tight-knit community. We spent our days hearing from passionate community members who each contribute something unique to the community. One day we visited Xtreme Waste, the town’s recycling center that was implemented by Rick, a local, because the county Raglan is in insisted on exporting all of their trash and recycling. Rick, and various other community members, decided to take a stand and insist on saving transportation costs and improving the local economy and went through many loopholes and governmental processes get the permission to implement this system. Not only does it keep the money within the community by providing local jobs, but it raises immense awareness among community members about the importance of recycling. Over 75% of Raglan’s “waste” is recycling, an inspiring rate that I think the states should strive towards. The recycling center has a consignment store, a wood center that has wood scraps, and other areas with metal scraps and other various items that one person within the community considered “waste” but may be picked up by another individual and seen as a useful treasure.

            We also visited Rick’s farm that he runs with his wife and learned about permaculture, which has a lot to do with being in touch with the earth. It was amazing to hear about them being able to tell weather patterns based on nature, for example they knew when a rain was coming soon because the buzz of the bees sounded different. I think it was astounding to learn how they could live so sustainably. Most of the food in their kitchen came from their farm. When they had kids, Rick decided to plant a forest so that when their son grew up he could build a house (from that wood). I’ve never heard of such a thing, and I think it takes very special people to do what they are doing on their farm. It definitely makes me look at the lifestyles of many Americans with a more critical eye. I think that there are so many little things that people can do that would help the environmental and ultimately save them money that are not being done in the states. For example, bringing your own coffee cup to get your morning cup of coffee requires a little extra thought in the morning, and sure you have to wash it everyday, but I know there are many places that give you a small discount if you take the time to save a disposable cup from going to the dump.

            We also had some nice down time, which was filled with walks and runs along the beach, and enjoying sunsets, more spontaneous dips in the ocean, as well as the hot tub at the hostel we were staying at. One afternoon a few friends and I rented kayaks and kayaked across the bay to these awesome rocks called “pancake rocks”, which looked exactly as they sound. It was fun exploring them and going in and out of little inlets that the rocks created along the coastline. 

            Today also marks two weeks since I arrived in New Zealand. It’s hard to believe I’ve only been here two weeks and I’ve already done and learned so much. I’ve been exposed to so many inspiring speakers and have had so many rich conversations with my directors and peers. I feel like I’m starting to develop a different outlook on environmental issues and gaining a better understanding of what I may want to do with my life. I want to somehow incorporate biology, my concentration, into environmental studies. I think that it would be awesome to do field world for an environmental company to study the current conditions to get a better idea of what we can do in the future to better certain environmental issues and again use science to measure the progress. We are headed to Lake Taupo for the next four nights, and from what I understand is a bigger town that depends a lot on eco-tourism. (We also get to spend a day and night on a farm, which I’m really excited for!)

P.S. I ALSO PURCHASED TICKETS FOR THE ALL BLACKS VS. AUSTRALIA GAME IN OCTOBER IN DUNEDIN!!

We are well underway into our second week in this country. My group spent the last three days in Cambridge, which is a quaint town inland on the North Island. After no heating or beds for five days at the Waharau Reserve, it was definitely nice to have central heating, an indoor bathroom, and stationary beds with sheets. Our stay was filled with lectures from Waikato Region (where Cambridge is located) government officials, as well as environmentalists who work in a variety of fields.

            One day we ventured to Maungatautari, a forested volcano cone and reserve that is the sacred mountain of the Ngati Koroki Kahukura people. We were hosted at the Pohara marea (a marea is a Maori meeting house that each Maori community has) in Maungatautari. We were welcomed at a powhiri, which a meeting ceremony. I was one of the three “callers” in our group. An elder woman, who was a member of the Pohara marae started chanting as we slowly approached her and the rest of the members of the marae. Me, and two other girls in my group stood in front of our group and took turns singing verses in the native language of Maori. We then sat facing the members of the marea and sang songs back and forth and one of our teachers is Maori and is fluent in the language so he spoke traditional verses to them. They were impressed by the few songs that we sung, which we learned at the last place we stayed. We then had tea with them and learned more about their particular Marae and discussed the journey of co-governance between the Maori and Kiwi’s (the rest of New Zealand). New Zealand is currently trying to reconcile their relationship with the Maori and give them back land that was originally taken away by original settlers. We spent that same afternoon at the Maungatautari Ecological Island Trust and hiked around while learning about the Trust from an environmental educator.

           It has been really interesting to learn about all of the environmental issues in New Zealand. New Zealand eco-tourism motto is “100 Percent Pure”, showing beautiful images of the landscapes. However, we have been learning that astounding amounts of land have been cleared for dairy farming, and other agricultural use, and the rolling green hills were in fact once dense forests that were cleared for farming practices. It’s been eye-opening to hear from members of the parliament and other government bodies and learn about different initiatives and organizations that have come to be to combat the degrading ecosystems. We are headed to Raglan next, which I heard is a beach town very similar to Stinson Beach (a little beach town near me in California). I’m excited to see what our next leg of our “field trip through the North Island” holds.